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Momofuku by Elvis Costello
Released: May 2008
Label: Lost Highway Records
Although his catalog swelled with a series of compilations and the horn-punctuated Allen Toussaint collaboration, the last time Costello bristled with as much energy was 2004's The Delivery Man. Like that LP, Momofuku opens with guns a-blazing, blowing off steam with a trio of rockers before settling down. The back half of the LP recalls everything from the repose of his late-career jazz influence to the organ-driven scream of the Attractions. It doesn't have the continuity of his greatest records, but taken individually the songs are crafted with his expected precision.
Nate Cavalieri
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